Easy Methods to Eliminate Cloudiness in Aquariums and Fish Ponds

If you are among the many individuals looking for tips on how to clean up a cloudy fish pond or aquarium and have carried out just about everything the professionals say to do, yet you’ve still got cloudy water, then the advice below should be of help.

There are various factors as to why a pond will end up green or cloudy. Weather conditions tend to be the leading culprit. Various temperature ranges, rainwater, and an excessive amount of sunlight will play a role in a cloudy pond.

Furthermore, insufficient purification and over-feeding will result in difficulties, along with inadequate chemical compounds. Listed here are a few of the real solutions when it comes to preserving a fish pond or aquarium.

Filtration Systems: Are They All the Same?

  • Submersible filtration systems are challenging to upkeep since you need to climb into the waters in order to execute proper servicing of them plus they usually elevate the temperature of the water.
  • Sand filters are generally difficult to thoroughly clean and don’t capture all of the particles within the sand, enabling a few to re-enter the pond or aquarium. Furthermore the sand filter needs to be functioning twenty-four hours each day for ideal purification and should be backwashed on a regular basis.
  • The bio-filter is nearly the same as the sand filtration system only that it can be even tougher to completely clean.
  • Cartridge filters are likely to be the most effective filters to make use of. They filter out basically all of the wastes, are incredibly simple to wash, and keep working for an extended period of time. You may use cartridge filters in fish aquariums as well.

Which Chemical Solution Should I Purchase?

Algaecide is highly suggested to get rid of algae and clearing up any cloudy or green pond. On the other hand, algaecides are a toxic not just to your fish, but to the surrounding environment as well. Algaecides consist of copper sulfate which can build up in the internal organs of fish and other creatures. A few cities have prohibited copper sulfate since it seriously will contaminate bays and lake and can be considered unsuitable for aquatic environments.

There is, however, an organic algaecide that exists filled with beneficial microorganisms which will benefit the overall wellness of the pond. A probiotic solution is one of the best choices you can make.

Oxygenator Plants May Be a Good Idea

Any underwater plant species that thrives beneath the surface of the pond, or even if part of a plant is submerged underneath the pond water, is considered to be an oxygenator plant. These underwater plants typically have thin roots designed only for anchorage to prevent movement from any currents or wind.

The nutrition and gaseous transaction occur on the exterior of the plant directly to each individual cell. With these plants in the water, you can be sure that any cloudiness will start to vanish due to an increase of oxygen in the water.

Install a UV Clarifier

One of the most effective methods for managing pond cloudiness and algae is to install a UV clarifier. The potency of the UV illumination, which is produced at a particular wavelength, is a miracle for pond keepers. UV light is a natural occurrence and is the main trigger of sun burnt skin when we are in the sun for an extended period of time.

The ultra violet light rays eradicates the cloudiness by getting rid of the cell walls of the algae, bringing about the system known as flocculation, which is essentially the process in which bacteria heaps together into large clumps.

This bulky piece of bacteria is now far too big to simply go through any filtration systems without notice, so the next time it runs through a filter it will be removed for good.

Choosing Suitable Aquarium Decor For Little Girls

Not many would care to admit it but the world of aquarium decorations tends to be a little male oriented. Looking at all the different tank ornaments from a distance you can see that they make up such themes as Pirates, Sunken Shipwreck, Greek Ruins, Skulls and more. This is not to mean that those themes are not stuff that girls would not be interested in. My own daughter is crazy about pirates, especially since Captain Jack Sparrow made it on the movies. But younger girls might not yet be into things that portray thrilling adventure or hulking ancient creatures. They may be looking for softer, more colorful alternatives and you might feel a little hard pressed searching for ornaments that would get them interested in fish keeping.

There still are some really cool options if you want a lively, colorful theme for your little girl. We’ll look at some of the best options that would guarantee your little daughter loves the aquarium you got for her and stays interested in it for a long time.

The first option would be castles. Which little girl does not dream of becoming a princess when she grows up. My tween daughter may be a tough tomboy right now but as a little child, she used to dress up in her prettiest princess outfit with her little tiara prancing around the house everyday. With the castle theme, what you would want to look for are ones that are more colorful and fun. There are numerous realistic castle decor on sale, but these tend to look gloomy and most in ruins. They make awesome looking decor in the eyes of an adult but may be a little too morbid for a little girl. Try to get colorful ones that allow the fish to enter inside as the cave would be a great benefit to the fish.

Another really cool suggestion would be the Dora the Explorer collection. Dora has numerous fish tank decor pieces that you could use in the aquarium, showing her in various poses and outfits. You can even get the other characters from the show such as Boots her monkey friend as well as her cousin Diego. Match these up, place them with some rocks and aquatic plants and they would look exactly like a scene from one of the cartoon shows.

Next we have the Atlantis theme. Ignore the ruins and temples for this one. You should focus more on getting a mermaid or two. Then add on one of the colorful caves that you could get, with tiny corals and anemone painted on them which will look really eye catching. To complement the theme, if there is some space to spare, you could add a couple of sea creatures. Get the fun looking cartoonish ones, such as sea horses and starfishes to create a really fun theme.

The final option would be fairies. Honestly, there are very few fairy tank ornaments on sale. But if you wish, you could get some resin home ornaments that can be placed inside the aquarium. Just ensure that there are not metal parts and that the ornaments are not hand painted without a layer of protection that prevents the paint from wearing out and leaking into the water. You may want to check out the Faerie Glen Bubble collection, which in my opinion are some of the most gorgeous fairy ornaments on sale today.

Building a Fence for a Horse Riding Arena

For our new horse riding arena we chose to build a full perimeter fence. This will be consisting of wood posts and boards that would match our out buildings and horse sheds. We used 8 inch posts, and 2 x 6 boards 16 feet long. Our posts were spaced 8 feet apart, this enabled us to fasten each 2 x 6 board to three posts. This was to reduce the chance of the 2 x 6 boards warping and twisting, as well as making the fence stronger. The position of all the posts, including gateways were staked out prior to constructing the arena fence. Our arena will be 200 x 100 feet, with a 12 foot gate at each end. We began by tying a string to a corner stake and pulling it 200 feet to the next corner stake on the long side of the arena. After pulling the string tight to ensure that it was a perfectly straight-line, we tied it tightly to the second stake. A stake for each post was then placed along the string line at 8 foot intervals to complete the first side of our perimeter fence.

To layout the second side of our riding arena fence we measured 100 feet from the corner stake and put a stake in the ground for the next corner. To make sure that the corners are perfect 90? angles. We could have used a construction calculator to do the math. Instead we made our own 90 degree angle with, a known math solution, the old tried and tested method of the 3, 4, 5 right-triangle solution. A triangle that has three sides where one is 3 feet long, another is 4 feet and the third leg is 5 feet long creates a right triangle. The intersection of the 3 foot and 4 foot leg create a perfect 90 degree angle. Any multiples of these dimensions also work; 6, 8, 10 or 12, 16, and 20 are also combinations that yield a perfect 90 degree angle. To make our corner, we used a measurement of 100 feet to the next corner, 75 feet back down our staked fence line, and 125 feet for our diagonal measurement. Where the 100 foot measurement, and the 125 foot measurement intersected we placed our next corner stake. After pulling a string to make sure of a straight-line, we placed 11 stakes at 8 foot intervals along the string. This made a total distance of 88 feet. The remaining 12 feet is where our gate went. We chose to use a 12 foot gate at each end of our arena for two reasons. First this is a good-sized opening for getting machinery into the arena to maintain the riding surface. And secondly, 12 feet gave us an even measurement for our 8 foot post spacing on the 100 foot side of the arena.

To layout and stake the third side of our arena perimeter fence, we measured 200 feet and placed the last corner stake, taking care to have perfect 90? angles on our corners using the 3, 4, 5 right-triangle solution. After pulling a straight string line we placed our post stakes every 8 feet completing the layout of the third side. We laid out the last side of the arena with 11 stakes spaced 8 feet apart for the posts and another 12 foot opening for a gate.

After all of the perimeter post positions had been staked, we used a post hole digger on a machine to drill the holes in the ground for our posts. Our posts were 8 feet long, and our holes were drilled 2 feet deep, so that we would have 6 feet of post sticking out of the ground when finished. We used a string line and level to make sure all of our posts were straight and uniform before tamping and watering the ground around them for compaction.

When all of the perimeter posts had been tamped into place, we then began fastening our 2 x 6 boards to the posts for the railings. We chose to use two railings one at 30 inches to the top, and another at 60 inches to the top of railing. Before fastening the railings to the posts, we pulled a string line tightly down the row of posts at 30 inches high and made a mark on each post were the top of the bottom railing will be, we also made another mark at 60 inches for the top of the top rail. Next we used clamps to clamp our 2 x 6 railing to the posts taking care to line up with our mark, we had made previously. The railings will be attached to the posts using 5/16 by 3 inch long lag bolts with a large flat washer. To do this, we first drilled two holes slightly smaller than 5/16 through the railing and into the post. We chose to use two bolts to fasten our railings to each post, therefore the two bolt holes were drilled in the railings 1 1/2 inches from the edge of the 2 x 6. We did not want our bolt heads to protrude out of the railing, so we drilled the two holes in the railing slightly larger than the washer 1/2″ deep to countersink the washer and head of the lag bolt. After inserting the bolts into the holes and tightening them up, the clamps were then removed and the process was repeated for the next railing.

After attaching all of the railings to the posts, we then hung the two 12 foot gates on each end of our riding arena. We purchased two steel gate kits that came with hinges and a latch on them ready for installation. To hang the gates was a simple matter of drilling two holes through the gateposts at the correct height. The final step to completing our riding arena was to paint all of the wood railings and posts with a good outdoor protective paint that would preserve and protect the wood, as well as matching the color on our existing horse sheds.

Cool Aquarium Decor For Under $10

Almost anyone can keep a fish tank. What could be so difficult about filling a tank with water and dropping some fish inside? Well, there is actually more to it than that. You will have to replicate the environment from where the fish came from as best as you can. This would mean proper water filtration, the right temperature for your fish as well as the perfect water chemical balance.

But this alone would not ensure that your fish will be healthy and happy. Another important thing which a lot of new as well as experienced hobbyists fail to consider is tank decoration. If you think about it, the fish would probably never know that the lump of resin you dumped in with it is meant to represent a mermaid but aquarium decor do benefit the fish in a number of other ways. The decor create a boundary of sorts within the confines of the tank and this becomes especially important to the territorial fish. Also, the holes and gaps in the tank decor act as little caves for the fish to hide away in when they feel a need.

However, tank ornaments, especially the really cool intricate ones, can be expensive. All is not lost. There are still loads of other tank ornaments that we can get which will not burn a hole in your pocket. In this lens, we’ll look at some of the ornaments that are really cool which you can get for under $10.

Artificial Corals

Artificial corals are a good place to look for inexpensive yet beautiful tank decor. It is fairly easy to find corals and artificial anemone online and in the pet stores. The cool thing about it is that you do not have to worry about what items to match with what. This is because even in nature, there really is no proper matching. You will see corals and anemone of all shapes and colors side by side. You don’t even have to worry about positioning or proper arrangements. Just place them however you like.

A cool thing to do is to have a background of an underwater scene or a coral reef scene. By placing your artificial corals in front of it, it does create a 3D like effect in the tank, making it look like a vast ocean.

Plain Rocks And Aquatic Plants

This is another relatively cheap but excellent alternative when decorating your aquarium. And it really does not take much effort or creativity. All you need to do is arrange some rocks into a formation and place aquatic plants around it. A good idea is to arrange the rocks such that it provides the fish with at least a small cave. As for the plants, try arranging them in a cascading effect, with the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in the front. And avoid blocking the rocks too much cos they are part of your decor.

For the background, you could use the same ones that I recommended for the Artificial Corals decor just now.

Do It Yourself Decor

One last suggestion is to just find stuff from around your house that you could use as tank ornaments. This can be almost anything such as unwanted china, old pottery and trinkets. But not everything can be put in the tank with fish. Avoid anything metal. They will oxidize and pollute the water. Also don’t have anything that is hand painted without a coat of varnish. The paint will leak into the water and poison it.

General Considerations When Raising Tadpoles

Frogs are fascinating amphibians which are increasingly being kept as pets by enthusiastic herpetoculturists. Caring for frogs in captivity naturally results in a desire to have a go at breeding them, providing other frog-keepers with captive born stock, making some money to recover the costs of buying the animals and equipment, and an amazing opportunity of observing the amphibian life cycle from egg to frog. Any successful frog breeding project must include research about, and a plan of how to raise the tadpoles.

Tadpoles are the larval form of frogs. The vast majority of amphibian species reproduce through externally developing eggs which result in aquatic tadpoles, and after a period of growth, undergo metamorphosis, which completely changes their morphology to froglets, which can live on both land and water. Because of the huge variety of types of frog that are bred in captivity, this article will not be able to provide detailed information about raising tadpoles of a specific species, but will discuss some universal considerations that are applicable to all tadpoles.

The vast majority of frog species start their life cycle as complete aquatic larvae, making the care of tadpoles is not dissimilar to that of aquarium fish and fish fry. Once the eggs are laid by the female they should be removed from the frog terrarium and placed in their own aquarium. The water in which the tadpoles will be reared must be dechlorinated, the easiest way to achieve that is by treating tap water with an aquarium fish water conditioner, which removes chlorines and chloramines. The water should be maintained at a temperature that is specific for the particular species of frog that you are breading, which might necessitate adding a heater to the aquarium.

It is best not to use gravel in the tadpole rearing tank, since it makes cleaning easier. Initially no filtration or aeration should be used, since the tiny tadpoles will find it hard to swim against the currents created and could be sucked up into the filter. It is easiest to start with a low water level, and gradually increase it by adding more dechlorinated water at the same temperature as the tank water, since water changes with tiny tadpoles are difficult. As the tadpoles grow in size and the rearing tank becomes filled with water, daily water changes of 50% of the water will become necessary to keep the water quality high. Gentle aeration with an airstone and an air pump should be added about 2 weeks after spawning. Biological filtration may be added using a simple sponge box filter driven by an air pump.

Feeding strategies for the tadpoles will depend on their species, and should be researched for each species that is raised. During the first few days after hatching, the embryos will not require food, since they will be absorbing their yolk sac. It is however preferable to start feeding too early, rather than too late, since starvation at this early stage in development can seriously delay growth and might lead to developmental abnormalities. Many frog species are herbivorous during their larval stages and can be fed on lettuce and other greens, which should be blanched under boiling water to soften them. Tadpoles of the African clawed frog are basically filter feeders and should be raised on infusoria, or powdered algae tablets. Providing some light over the tadpole tank will encourage the growth of algae and green water, providing a non-polluting and self-sustaining source of food. Carnivorous tadpoles such as those of the horned frogs, are perhaps the most difficult to feed, since they need live food and would probably do best on fish fry. They are often cannibalistic and will require isolating as they grow.

Choosing Among Several Reptile Cages and Terrariums

If you’re the type of pet owner who loves to raise cold-blooded animals as a hobby, then you should be familiar with the equipments that these species need, including a convenient home. However, with so many of these reptile cages and terrariums available in the market today, it will be harder for you to settle on a single brand, also considering that these products are often equipped with features, which satisfy a specific function. Fortunately, there are some helpful hints by which you can quickly go in and out of the store in record time, while still getting that prized furniture.

1. Reptile cages and terrariums come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and thus, you are required to take note of the body measurements of your pets, as well as its ability to crawl and climb from one place to another. If you feel like your pal needs more room to stretch its legs, or exercise its muscles, then a long vivarium should accommodate these needs. However, if your pal loves to attach itself to the glass walls, adjustments to the heights are required.

2. An ideal terrarium should already be equipped with a special fixture, where you can install your reptile lighting. It doesn’t matter whether the equipment is meant for fluorescent strips or small bulbs. What’s important is that there is an allocated space to accommodate these vital devices. If you’re having problems with locating these cages, then you’d be surprised to learn that you’re more likely to find the perfect pet home in the aquarium section of the store.

3. Your reptile supplies should also fit inside the terrarium. While this is one of the factors, which should be at the top of your priority list, it is surprising to know that many owners overlook this fact, resulting to an overcrowded home or a messy interior decoration.

4. Common reptile supplies, such as the terrarium, are always available in the market with a wide range in price that is meant to satisfy everyone’s budget. However, when picking the perfect home, you should also take the time to check every aspect of the house, without looking at the expenses. This way, you know that your decision will not be influenced by your savings. Instead, you will be more driven to settle on a product based on its quality.

Considering these few tips is sure to guarantee that you will bring home the perfect terrarium for your beloved friends.

Exotic Birds: All About Purple Martin Housing

Purple Martins are the largest breed of swallows that nest typically in North America. These beautiful and exotic birds mostly depend on man-made or artificial housing like wood and aluminum houses mounted on poles or natural and artificial bird house gourds.

If you are thinking of being a host to these species of exotic birds you will not be disappointed. Setting up individual houses or even a small colony in an open space near your house like the back yard can be a highly rewarding experience.

Here are some of the different housing options that Purple martins prefer to nest in.

Aluminum Houses:

As far as housing Purple martins go, selecting the right size house is essential. Aluminum houses for martins are not only heavy duty and durable but also have openings on all four corners. Providing spacious housing like this for the birds to perch on not only increases the potential of occupancy by them but also does away with territorial issues.

Wood Houses:

Many Martin hobbyists also prefer to go with wooden houses, mainly because it has two design features that help attract them. The first one is that wooden houses can be lowered or raised vertically without making it tip over. Secondly, the nesting spaces inside are easily accessible, which allows a person to remove any unwanted pests or other species of birds. This also allows the houses to be monitored without disturbing or damaging the nests.

PVC Plastic Houses:

For the first time their hobbyist, going with the plastic houses will be the perfect and cheapest way to start off your Bird’s colony. PVC houses are made out of hard plastic that is durable and pleasant to look at. They are also extremely easy to assemble and provide UV protection.

Gourds:

Bird house gourds have always been popular among Purple’s hobbyists. Today, you can easily grow natural gourds in your backyard with proper information. The advantage of having a gourd is that they do not attract other bird species like sparrows or starlings that can cause problems for the Purple martin colony.

Gourds are usually painted white to reflect heat and provide a cool environment for them to nest in. Plastic gourds enable the owners to access inner reaches of purple martin houses by way of a movable vent cap and extra access entrances for regular clean-ups and nest checks.

Most of the Purple Martin houses have Starling or round openings, door plugs, front porches and internal predator guards. By carefully reading and understanding the importance of getting the right kind of housing you can ensure that the Birds will come to nest in your colony every year.

Crested Gecko Care Made Easy

The crested gecko is a popular choice for reptile keepers. These geckos are great for beginners, but many experienced reptile keepers enjoy keeping these charming creatures as well.There is a large variety of patterns and colors that make this herp a distinguished favorite. Even though they are a cute pet, you should not purchase one before you know exactly how to care for them. Proper Crested gecko care is crucial to maintaining the health and general well-being of your pet.

The crested gecko is a nocturnal animal, i.e. most activity takes place at night. This may deter you from keeping them as pets as you may not see much of them during the day. There are advantages to this behavior too though; providing the right light is not a problem anymore. Most reptiles require light that contains UV rays to maintain their health. Installing a bulb that emits UV rays in a small cage can be a bit of a challenge. Crested geckos don’t require any significant amounts of UV rays and you therefore don’t have to worry about the light in the terrarium.

Unlike most reptiles, crested geckos are omnivorous, i.e. they eat both vegetables (actually berries and pureed fruit) as well as meat (mainly insects, though they may actually eat their own offspring).

Are you wondering how they got their name? They got their name from the fringe that is running down their back, starting right above their eyes. You may also hear people calling them the “eyelash gecko” because of that fringe. Their scientific name is Rhacodactylus ciliatus. Rhakos is Greek for spine, Dactylus means “finger” and Cilia is latin for “fringe”.

At one point in time, it was believed that this species was extinct, but then, in the year 1994, it was rediscovered off the coast of Australia in the islands of New Caledonia.

Breeding Crested Geckos

If you are thinking about breeding this species, you are in luck, because they are fairly easy to breed. Before you breed them, they should be at least fourteen months old, at least 35 grams and of course, healthy. In order to produce the eggs properly, the female will need to receive the right amount of calcium, it is therefore important to add supplements of calcium to your crested gecko’s diet. Calcium specifically produced for reptiles is readily available in pet shops and online. The gestation period for this species is between 30-35 days. During this time, the female crested gecko produces two eggs. Sperm can remain in the female for up to eight months after mating, so eggs can be fertilized even after males have been removed from the cage.

Size

The hatchlings are three inches long – the adults will range from 8-10 inches in length (this includes their tail).

Lifespan of Crested Geckos

The lifespan of this reptile is 15 to 20 years, as long as you properly take care of the creature.

Diet

The diet is always an important part of caring for any pet. Crested geckos feed on insects and fruits in the wild. Many people feed meal replacement powder, pureed fruit and live crickets when they have them as pets. You should never feed them citrus fruits as the acid may harm them. Calcium, nutritional supplements and vitamin D3 should be sprinkled lightly on their food in order to maintain their health. You can find these supplements in your local pet store or online.

Crested Gecko Cage

When you have one of these creatures as pets, it is important that you have the proper home for them. In the wild, they are arboreal, i.e. they live mainly in trees. They also like to have places to hide so that they feel secure. You should have only one male in the same enclosure. If you have two males, they will fight over the territory. You can, however, keep two females and one male in a 29-gallon aquarium without having problems. You should carefully consider the set-up and decoration of your crested gecko cage, as it needs to fulfil your pet’s needs for shelter, warmth and humidity.

Temperatures in your crested gecko cage: The gecko should be kept at temperatures between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You should mist their enclosure daily in order to keep them hydrated and supply them with humidity. In temperatures that are below 65 or above 80, the gecko will become stressed.

As for handling, this is something you should not do so much. When you first get them, you should let them adjust to their environment. They love to jump, so only handle them while you are sitting down and only handle them for fifteen minutes at a time.

Choosing a Winning Barrel Racing Futurity Prospect

When selecting a barrel racing futurity prospect, the first thing I consider is the horse’s pedigree. Are the bloodlines in the prospect’s pedigree statistically proven to win in futurity competitions? The sire with the most winning futurity horses is Dash Ta Fame. There are horses sired by Dash Ta Fame that have not won and there are horses not sired by him that have won, but statistically his offspring perform better, and I prefer to stack the odds in my favor. Most people are misinformed to think that an average mare can produce an outstanding foal if bred to an outstanding stallion. I disagree. The truly phenomenal horses, come from outstanding mares, therefore, I heavily weigh the dam’s side of the pedigree. I consider whether she was a great performer herself, or if any of her previous foals have performed well. Both sides of the pedigree should be able to stand on the own merit, and should not be used to compensate each other.

Next, I study the prospect’s conformation, how its body is built. There are specific attributes that better equip barrel horses to perform their jobs. I look for a big, round, dark, “soft,” kind-looking eye. An eye with this appearance signifies intelligence. I want a nice slope to the shoulder, a steep shoulder indicates a short stride without much reach. That being said, the angle of the shoulder and the hip should match, indicating the horse will be able to collect effectively in training. Moving down from the hip to the hocks, I prefer a lower hock set to a higher one. This allows a horse to get underneath itself for the turn, and should be powerful pushing off with its hind end. Moving further down to the pasterns, I look for a well-balanced pastern. Too long and the horse will be more prone to injuries, too short and the horse’s stride will be hampered. The overall legs should not be too finely boned, as this will lend the horse towards more injuries. I also study the back and underline. I prefer a short back and long underline. This indicates speed and agility. I do not consider height too much when selecting a prospect. There is not a perfect size for winning. I have seen pro horses winning that are anywhere between 14- 17 hands. I prefer mine to be between 15.0-15.3, but that is a personal preference. Short horses can be just as fast as the tall horses if they have the conformation to do so. That is what is important. Barrel racing, especially futurities, asks a lot of the horses’ bodies. Selecting a prospect that is naturally better equipped to perform the task will only give you an advantage in the arena, as well as aid in preventing injuries.

There are advantages and disadvantages to selecting your prospect from the race track. The disadvantages could be endless if you do not buy from a reputable trainer. The horse could already have soundness issues. It could be mentally pushed too hard, therefore will be unable to adapt to barrel training. They could be infusing the horse with illegal substances. These instances, unfortunately, do happen at race tracks, but can be avoided if you know where you should be purchasing. If you buy from a reputable trainer, the advantages include that the horse has already been taught to run. Some people see babies out in the pasture with their moms frolicking around and assume horses naturally know how to run. This is not the case. Horses have no idea how to run at the speed needed for competition and must be trained to do so. When they come from the track, you do not have to include that in your barrel training. Another advantage is that they have already been exposed to the newness of hauling and travelling to new places. Track horses are well seasoned, whereas horses that have not been to the track must slowly adjust to the experiences of hauling.

Decorating An Outdoor Fish Pond

I must admit that in the slightly over a decade that I have been decorating aquarium, I have only actually decorated less than half a dozen outdoor fish ponds. It’s not that I do not have the confidence in doing so. It is just that in most cases, outdoor fish pond design and decorating has always fallen into the area of landscape designers.

A fish pond poses its own set of considerations which are vastly different from an aquarium. Therefore, decorating it must be planned and handled differently as well.

The first issue of a fish pond is the visual perspective. An aquarium will be viewed from the front and sides. Therefore, when designing an aquarium theme, you would place ornaments and arrange them for this perspective. However, fish ponds are viewed from the top. The ornaments that you place inside the pond needs to be those that are visually pleasing when viewed from above. Placing an ornament that has intricate details on its side defeats any decorative purpose.

The second factor also has to do with the visual aspect. Depending on how deep your pond is, placing low lying decoration might not be a good idea. This is because the deeper the pond is, the less light the bottom gets and having decor lying low at the bottom would make it almost invisible when viewed from outside the water. This is one of the reasons why most fond designers incorporate decorative items on the outside of the pond, rather than submerged inside.

One last issue would be the weather. Unlike an aquarium which is placed in the comfort of your home, outdoor ponds are exposed to the fury of the weather. The ornaments that your choose to decorate them must be created to withstand harsh natural conditions. These include the scorching sun, the pouring rain and in certain regions, freezing cold. Decor that are not designed for this onslaught would easily fade and crack when exposed to it.

Tips On Designing An Outdoor Fish Pond

The key here is to first keep in mind the three major considerations above. Make your selection of each individual item based on these factors.

Pick out a theme that is suitable for an outdoor theme. Some really cool theme ideas include Fairies and Mermaids. There are dozen of such ornaments that you could get that have been designed specifically for an outdoor pond. You could also use figurines of animals that can be found by or in the water such Turtles, Herons, Dolphins, Crocodiles and Hippos to name a few.

An awesome idea is to try to get ornaments that actually look like they are interacting with the water. This would include such figurines as Fishermen, Little Kids Tinkling Into The Water or Maidens With Vases. Many of these have pumps that flow the water through them and pours out from them back into the pond.

Apart from rocks to provide cover for the fish, you really do not need any submerged decor. Having little or no decorative items inside the water will make it a whole lot easier to clean.

Incorporating Aquatic Plants Into Your Pond Design

Being outdoors creates an ideal condition for plants. The plants would receive sufficient sunlight and will thrive in the water. Also, placing plants inside the pond has a lot more benefits other than just being visually pleasing. The floating plants which live on the surface of the water provides shade and cover for the fish. This is extremely important especially when you have fry that have to hide away from the adult fish.

The plants also provides competition against algae growth. By competing for sunlight and nutrients in the pond, these aquatic plants would starve the algae and limit their growth.