Tips for New Leopard Gecko Owners

What you should know about caring for a Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are kid size and kid friendly and with proper guidance you can learn to be an expert reptile owner starting with these great little pets. Kids love them, and hey why wouldn’t they? If you are looking for an economical pet, a leopard gecko definitely fits the bill when it comes to cost, and upkeep. You can find them in just about any big name and the small mom & pop pet stores these days for sale for very cheap. However, for the new leopard gecko owner, knowing the proper care for your reptile can be very daunting without the right instructions. Reptiles have very specific needs which are very unlike the needs of mammals. If you don’t know exactly what you are doing you could end up with a stressed out gecko.

A couple of months ago my nephew’s grandpa bought him a brand new habitat for his geckos and one of them kept hiding behind the scenery making it very hard for him to find his way out. During one of my brother’s attempts to rescue him from behind the faux rock wall, the gecko dropped it’s tail because it perceived my brother as a predator and got stressed out. Did you know that was one of the interesting facts about these reptiles? Yep, they lose their tail as a defense mechanism so that they are able to get away from their prey while they confuse it with the still squirming tail.

I have to say that I’ve never been much of a reptile person but after my nephew got a pair of pet geckos for Christmas, I have become a convert when it comes to these little guys. They have fabulous colors and good temperaments and since they are depending on you to provide their food, shelter, and care, you have to learn how to do it right. That’s where this great guide to a happy leopard gecko was a vital find in our search to keep these little guys happy and comfy.

What They Eat

Now that you have your new pet gecko, you need to make sure that you are going to feed it the proper food that leopard geckos love. One great thing to feed them are small crickets. They are very inexpensive to buy, you can buy large quantities of them, and they will devour them. The other type of food you can give them is wax worms. They really love a dish full of these and will munch on them with pleasure. If you cannot get your hands on wax worms you can give them other types of live worms such as meal worms or silk worms. These are very easy to keep in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator to ensure that they stay alive and ready to feed to them. Finally, always make sure that you change their water daily because all animals love fresh water and require it.

Expert Leopard Gecko Care

So in conclusion, once you have all of the basic care requirements down pat, and you know what to do to ensure a happy life for your pet geckos, you may once day decide to start breeding leopard geckos. This does require a bigger level of commitment and investment of time and money on your part but, the pay off can be a very nice one. Leopard Gecko breeding can make a very nice second income for the avid reptile lover.

Caring for Chubby Frogs (Asian Painted Frogs)

About Chubby Frogs:

The Chubby Frog got its nickname because of its plump, round body. It is also called the Asian Painted Frog because of its origin and the fact that it has two stripes on its back that are outlined in black or dark brown, giving it a “painted” appearance. The frog’s scientific name is Kaloula pulchra. All the Kaloula pulchra frogs in the pet trade are wild-caught from their various natural habitats which include leafy forests, rice fields, and even small towns. During the daytime hours, these frogs stay hidden underneath leaves and debris. They emerge for feeding in the evening.

Choosing a Frog:

Make sure you pick a healthy Chubby Frog at the pet store. For one, make sure the frog is actually chubby! Its body should be full and round. If the frog is underweight, you’ll see bones sticking out. Examine the eyes for clarity, and the skin for open wounds or abrasions. If you go to the pet shop during the day, the frog should be hiding. If you find it out in the open, that could be a sign of illness. Of course, it could also mean that somebody else was recently examining it. Be sure to ask the pet store owner if someone was recently handling the frog. Unless the frog is disturbed or ill, it will remain hidden during the day.

Chubby Frog Housing:

A 10- to 15-gallon enclosure will give your frog the amount of room that it needs. If you’d like to house 2 frogs, a 20-gallon tank is recommended. Be sure to use a terrarium with a tight, screen lid secure enough to prevent escapes. These frogs are great climbers!

The bottom of the enclosure needs to be layered with substrate, at least 2″ deep for burrowing. Steer clear of gravel, wood chips, sand, and vermiculite or perlite. The best substrates for your Chubby include peat moss / potting soil mixes, eco earth, organic mulch, and coconut fiber.

Furnish the terrarium with potted plants, driftwood, and other items that the frog can use for hiding or climbing. To prevent the frog from uprooting plants while burrowing, you may wish to keep live plants planted in pots rather than directly in the substrate.

Your frog will prefer the temperature to be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a heat lamp or under-tank heater to maintain the temperature. Aim for about 80 degrees F. during the day, and no cooler than 70 degrees F. at night.

A few times per week, mist the inside of the tank with water. Humidity is important for your frog. The water MUST be 100% chlorine-FREE!

NOTE: Day / Night Difference – Your frog needs to be able to tell day from night. For this reason, an under-tank heater may be better than a heat lamp. That way, you can maintain the temperature at night without having the bright light on in the frog’s face. Also, you should keep the frog’s terrarium in a location where it can naturally experience light during the day and dark at night. Try to keep it in a room that will not have lights turned on often at night.

The Best Food to Feed a Bearded Dragon

Bearded dragons make wonderful pets. They are active during the day, and when adult are large enough to be allowed to roam around the house for limited periods (that is, until they start getting cold) without any fears of them disappearing in small hiding places – obviously they need to be supervised at all times. They also have the advantage of almost being born tame and are happy to sit on their owner and will put up with a cuddle.

They are attractive and have great personalities, and make excellent pets for people who are allergic to fur and cannot have any of the more common warm blooded pets. In captivity with the correct husbandry they should live for up to 10 years or even more. The oldest I’m currently aware of is 12. To reach their potential live span they need to be fed the correct foods.

I am often contacted by people who would like to own a bearded dragon, and who want to know if there is any alternative to feeding them live food. The answer is a very definite NO. Although many pet shops stock dried food which is supposed to be for bearded dragons, I have never heard of one that actually will eat this. I’ve tried to feed it to mine but I think they would rather starve!

The amount and type of live food they need changes as they grow from hatchling to adult. When first hatched they are almost totally carnivorous. When adult they are 80% vegetarian. At all stages of their lives they should have the correct balance of vegetables/fruit and live food.

When a juvenile is purchased and brought home from the breeder or pet shop it is important to always offer finely chopped vegetables/fruit. The rule of thumb when feeding bearded dragons is to make sure no food offered is larger than the gap between their eyes. This goes for the size of live food offered, as well as the green stuff. If a juvenile has been properly fed from hatching it will be used to always have a bowl of veg in its enclosure, which it will peck at if there’s nothing better on offer. Juvenile bearded dragons are often similar to human toddlers – seemingly allergic to anything green! But if they’ve been used to it they’ll often continue to munch on salad and vegetables throughout their growing period. Some beardies refuse to touch vegetables – some (including mine!) have been known never to eat it when their owners are watching as if by pretending they are starving they’ll be offered something more tasty. But eventually they all succumb and eat it and, when adult, it will be their staple diet.

If you have a juvenile who won’t touch the stuff, don’t worry. He’ll get there in time, and though it’s disappointing to spend your time chopping food that’s not eaten, you must persevere. It’s best to try and variety of different vegetables and fruit – some beardies like some things, others don’t. Cabbage, mixed salad leaves, curly kale, peppers, sweet potato, grapes, apples, carrots are all foods which might appeal to a beardie. Experiment with items that you eat and see what yours likes.

Bearded dragons should never be fed avocado, and avoid items with a high moisture content such as iceburg lettuce, cucumber or tomatoes which will cause diarrhoea.

These reptiles have an astonishing rate of growth – they grow 4000 times in size from hatching to adult, and should reach full size between 12 and 18 months. To support this tremendous growth rate they have to have copious amounts of protein which can only be supplied by a main diet of live food. When deciding whether this is the pet for you, you need to factor in the cost of their food. During their first year of live they cost as much as a cat and some dogs to feed. There is also the problem of obtaining live food – but if you don’t live near a suitably stocked pet shop mail order is very efficient, and you can set up a regular order with most online suppliers.

The basic live food diet is crickets. These come in two types – brown, and black. Black are supposedly silent, but you’ll still get the odd one that will chirp all night. Both are nutritious. Crickets, as other insects, come in various sizes called instars. As a cricket grows it sheds its skin. First instar crickets are the smallest, and then they increase in size through various sheds until they reach adult size. Don’t feed crickets which are too big for your bearded dragon (remember the gap between the eyes rule), but conversely, if you try and offer crickets that are too small he might not be interested in them.

All live food should be gut fed – this simply means feeding them the same vegetables that you are offering your beardie. Hence even if he isn’t keen on vegetables, he’ll be getting the goodness by eating the crickets.

When growing rapidly they should be fed live food 3 times a day up until the age of about 4 months – as many as they can eat in a 10 minute session each time. This can be reduced to 2 feeds, and then to 1 when the beardie is a good size – around 6 to 8 months. It is difficult to give any definite ages as all bearded dragons grow at different rates. As they are such voracious eaters crickets are recommended as they are the cheapest to buy.

Bearded dragons need calcium supplement – daily until they are adult, and then about weekly thereafter. Calcium powder is sprinkled on their food. Without extra calcium they are likely to develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes deformities in their bone growth, and is often fatal. Prevention is far better than trying to cure it.

It is perfectly possible to feed crickets and dust them with calcium powder without having to touch them by using a Cricket Keeper. You empty the crickets from the tub they arrive in into the keeper, and put vegetables and water into it. Pots of water are not recommended as the crickets are likely to drown in it, instead you can buy Bug Gel, or simply put in cotton wool balls soaked in water. Cricket Keepers have four black tubes. The crickets go up the tubes as they like being in the dark. When it’s feeding time you simply lift out one of the tubes, spinkle some calcium supplement down the tube, put something over the top and shake vigorously. This coats the crickets evenly with calcium powder, and also slightly stuns them which makes them slower and easier for the beardie to catch. You can also slow down crickets by putting them in the fridge for a few minutes before feeding. Most beardies can catch them anyway, but some have difficulty at first, so slower moving crickets can be beneficial.

As beardies grow they can move on to locusts or roaches. A roach colony can be kept at home, and so you can breed your own live food and make feeding much cheaper though not everyone wants to do this. Locusts are much more tasty to a bearded dragon, and also more expensive to buy. If you start feeding these too early you may find he won’t go back to eating crickets, and hence it will be far more expensive. For that reason I recommend staying with crickets as long as possible. As adults they will only need livefood two or three times a week. Once they are fully grown too much protein will overload their internal organs so if you overfeed you will be killing them with kindness.

Meal worms should not be given to bearded dragons. They do like them, but their skins are high in chitin which is hard to digest, and they are not as nutritious as crickets or locusts. Morio worms are a good substitute, but I’d still stick with crickets as a staple diet. Silk worms can also be fed daily, but again are more expensive. Wax worms are only to be given as a treat as they are very rich. They do love them in the way we like chocolate!

Remember, feeding your bearded dragon the correct food for each stage of its life is important, but equally so is having your vivarium set up correctly. The basking temperature should be right as it helps them digest their food properly, and a strong UVB light is necessary so they get sufficient vitamins.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Cage for Your Pet Reptiles

Reptiles are a very diverse group of animals. Getting a pet reptile such as a lizard will require you to do some extensive researching. Lizards live in various kinds of habitats. They can thrive in the driest deserts up to the most humid rain forests. Getting to know more about your pet lizard’s natural habitat will help you to choose and design the right cage for it.

There are five things that you should consider before buying a cage for your lizard. These are security, humidity, lighting, space and heating. To understand more about these elements, you should learn more on how your pet lizard naturally lives in the wild. This will help you to imitate its natural habitat and provide what it needs.

In terms of security, it is not advisable for a lizard owner to build a “do it yourself” cage. This can’t be done unless you have the right skills for building one. The most basic thing is to buy a cage that will prevent your pet from escaping. Reptiles are very good in escaping. Therefore, a professional cage is what you need to keep it secure at all times. A cage with good security features will also protect your lizard from intruders especially if you have other pets living in your house.

Second thing to consider is humidity. Lizards have various moisture requirements. There are certain lizards that best thrive in dry cages. And there are those that have high humidity requirements. In this case, know the species of your lizard and determine its humidity needs. If it is a tropical lizard then it should be put in a cage with lots of moisture or humidity.

Sufficient lighting is very important for your lizard to survive. Most lizards love the sun. However, there are still some that prefer burrowing themselves underground. But generally, lizards need sunlight exposure. You can use full-spectrum lights to replace natural sun exposure. Therefore, when choosing a cage, you must make sure that the cage will allow you to use special lighting for your pet.

Heat control is another thing that you should consider when choosing a cage. First, you have to research about the temperature requirement of your pet lizard. After that, you must choose a cage that will allow you to maintain the specific amount of heat that your lizard needs. The cage must be able to hold up the heat to make sure that the right temperature is maintained.

Lastly, you must also consider the space and the orientation of the cage. There are certain species of lizards that can grow up to 6 feet and more. You should consider this when picking the size of your cage. Your pet lizard may look so small right now but it will eventually grow in size and may need a larger space to survive. As mentioned earlier there are lizards that love to burrow into the ground and there are also some species that love to climb. Determine which among the 2 types your lizard is. If it is a climber then it would be best to choose a tall cage. If it loves to live underground then you might need a wider cage.

Determining how a particular species of lizard lives in its natural habitat is the most important thing to know to be able to create a good artificial dwelling place for it. Reptiles have different characteristics and survival instincts. What is best for one may not be the best for the other.

A Tortoise House For Every Tortoise

Having the right kind of tortoise house for your pet is a big part of keeping her healthy. Every type of tortoise is different and has different requirements as far as housing goes, so be sure that you know what your tortoise needs.

There are two basic types of tortoises, those that live in tropical regions and those that live in temperate regions. Do your research before you even make a purchase and choose a tortoise whose natural habitat is close to the one in which you live.

Whether they are herbivores or omnivores, tortoises like to graze and will typically eat small amounts of plants as they wander around. For this reason and more, tortoises do not make great indoor pets. The space requirements for an average-sized tortoise are 100 square feet (10 square meters). Unless you plan on converting your spare bedroom into a terrarium, you will need to keep your tortoise in a secure pen outside.

Tortoises thrive in outdoor living areas, so long as they have plenty of food, access to water, and a good tortoise house. You will also need to be sure that your tortoise cannot escape from your yard, as they are known for trying to escape. That means burying fencing so they can’t dig under it. The needs of your tortoise based on her species will determine the type of house you will need to provide.

Tortoises from temperate climates will need a solid and enclosed house that will protect her from rain, cooler temperatures at night, and predators. It is also good to have a part of the house that has good ventilation for warmer summer months so she can get shade without overheating. This may also be the place your tortoise chooses to hibernate in during the winter, so you will need to watch for signs of going into hibernation in the fall so you can bring her into your house to keep an eye on here there.

Tortoises from tropical climates will need a house that gives them some extra heat. This is especially important if you don’t live in an area that gets as hot as her natural climate. You can find different greenhouses that are designed specifically for houses that will give her a place to go to warm up. Make sure that you choose a tortoise house that is strong and that will stay at the right temperature.

What Kinds Of Tortoise Make The Best Pets?

There are a number or different kinds of tortoises you could choose to care for but the common denominator is how well you can accommodate a specific species in your lifestyle and your home.

A major part of your decision should include how much space you have? For example if you decide to keep a small tortoise such as a Russian or Hors field tortoise which are commonly available in many pet shops you will need to provide an enclosure for it to live in that is at least 2x2meters. this is not necessary for a very young and small tortoise but as your pet grows he will require a larger space in which to live. If your enclosure is too small your pet can become stressed and this may lead to physical health problems.

In the enclosure you need to provide substrate, which is what covers the bottom of their home. This will need to be reasonably deep so that it does not hod moisture which may allow fungus to grow. I like to use a combination of play sand and top soil which is easy to maintain and keep clean. Daily you should remove waste matter and uneaten food.

If you live in an area of the world which is similar to the natural habitat where your tortoise would live naturally it is easier for you to provide an outside enclosure. this would be the ideal for a tortoise such as a Russian which will thrive in an outside home. They are very curious and active little tortoises and will love to explore their environment, hide away and graze on naturally growing foliage in their enclosure.

A suitable outside enclosure will not necessarily require artificial heat and light if the climate is suitable. However, you may need to provide an indoor enclosure when the weather is less favorable. In this case you will need to provide a basking area which will need to be approximately 95 degrees. tortoises need the correct amount of heat and light in order to remain healthy. The heat and light will enable the tortoise to metabolize their food correctly and benefit from minerals and vitamins.

When you are wondering what kinds of tortoise would be best for you and your family the best way to provide the optimum environment is to research what the natural environment would be in the wild and mimic this as far as possible.

General Considerations When Raising Tadpoles

Frogs are fascinating amphibians which are increasingly being kept as pets by enthusiastic herpetoculturists. Caring for frogs in captivity naturally results in a desire to have a go at breeding them, providing other frog-keepers with captive born stock, making some money to recover the costs of buying the animals and equipment, and an amazing opportunity of observing the amphibian life cycle from egg to frog. Any successful frog breeding project must include research about, and a plan of how to raise the tadpoles.

Tadpoles are the larval form of frogs. The vast majority of amphibian species reproduce through externally developing eggs which result in aquatic tadpoles, and after a period of growth, undergo metamorphosis, which completely changes their morphology to froglets, which can live on both land and water. Because of the huge variety of types of frog that are bred in captivity, this article will not be able to provide detailed information about raising tadpoles of a specific species, but will discuss some universal considerations that are applicable to all tadpoles.

The vast majority of frog species start their life cycle as complete aquatic larvae, making the care of tadpoles is not dissimilar to that of aquarium fish and fish fry. Once the eggs are laid by the female they should be removed from the frog terrarium and placed in their own aquarium. The water in which the tadpoles will be reared must be dechlorinated, the easiest way to achieve that is by treating tap water with an aquarium fish water conditioner, which removes chlorines and chloramines. The water should be maintained at a temperature that is specific for the particular species of frog that you are breading, which might necessitate adding a heater to the aquarium.

It is best not to use gravel in the tadpole rearing tank, since it makes cleaning easier. Initially no filtration or aeration should be used, since the tiny tadpoles will find it hard to swim against the currents created and could be sucked up into the filter. It is easiest to start with a low water level, and gradually increase it by adding more dechlorinated water at the same temperature as the tank water, since water changes with tiny tadpoles are difficult. As the tadpoles grow in size and the rearing tank becomes filled with water, daily water changes of 50% of the water will become necessary to keep the water quality high. Gentle aeration with an airstone and an air pump should be added about 2 weeks after spawning. Biological filtration may be added using a simple sponge box filter driven by an air pump.

Feeding strategies for the tadpoles will depend on their species, and should be researched for each species that is raised. During the first few days after hatching, the embryos will not require food, since they will be absorbing their yolk sac. It is however preferable to start feeding too early, rather than too late, since starvation at this early stage in development can seriously delay growth and might lead to developmental abnormalities. Many frog species are herbivorous during their larval stages and can be fed on lettuce and other greens, which should be blanched under boiling water to soften them. Tadpoles of the African clawed frog are basically filter feeders and should be raised on infusoria, or powdered algae tablets. Providing some light over the tadpole tank will encourage the growth of algae and green water, providing a non-polluting and self-sustaining source of food. Carnivorous tadpoles such as those of the horned frogs, are perhaps the most difficult to feed, since they need live food and would probably do best on fish fry. They are often cannibalistic and will require isolating as they grow.

Choosing Among Several Reptile Cages and Terrariums

If you’re the type of pet owner who loves to raise cold-blooded animals as a hobby, then you should be familiar with the equipments that these species need, including a convenient home. However, with so many of these reptile cages and terrariums available in the market today, it will be harder for you to settle on a single brand, also considering that these products are often equipped with features, which satisfy a specific function. Fortunately, there are some helpful hints by which you can quickly go in and out of the store in record time, while still getting that prized furniture.

1. Reptile cages and terrariums come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and thus, you are required to take note of the body measurements of your pets, as well as its ability to crawl and climb from one place to another. If you feel like your pal needs more room to stretch its legs, or exercise its muscles, then a long vivarium should accommodate these needs. However, if your pal loves to attach itself to the glass walls, adjustments to the heights are required.

2. An ideal terrarium should already be equipped with a special fixture, where you can install your reptile lighting. It doesn’t matter whether the equipment is meant for fluorescent strips or small bulbs. What’s important is that there is an allocated space to accommodate these vital devices. If you’re having problems with locating these cages, then you’d be surprised to learn that you’re more likely to find the perfect pet home in the aquarium section of the store.

3. Your reptile supplies should also fit inside the terrarium. While this is one of the factors, which should be at the top of your priority list, it is surprising to know that many owners overlook this fact, resulting to an overcrowded home or a messy interior decoration.

4. Common reptile supplies, such as the terrarium, are always available in the market with a wide range in price that is meant to satisfy everyone’s budget. However, when picking the perfect home, you should also take the time to check every aspect of the house, without looking at the expenses. This way, you know that your decision will not be influenced by your savings. Instead, you will be more driven to settle on a product based on its quality.

Considering these few tips is sure to guarantee that you will bring home the perfect terrarium for your beloved friends.

Crested Gecko Care Made Easy

The crested gecko is a popular choice for reptile keepers. These geckos are great for beginners, but many experienced reptile keepers enjoy keeping these charming creatures as well.There is a large variety of patterns and colors that make this herp a distinguished favorite. Even though they are a cute pet, you should not purchase one before you know exactly how to care for them. Proper Crested gecko care is crucial to maintaining the health and general well-being of your pet.

The crested gecko is a nocturnal animal, i.e. most activity takes place at night. This may deter you from keeping them as pets as you may not see much of them during the day. There are advantages to this behavior too though; providing the right light is not a problem anymore. Most reptiles require light that contains UV rays to maintain their health. Installing a bulb that emits UV rays in a small cage can be a bit of a challenge. Crested geckos don’t require any significant amounts of UV rays and you therefore don’t have to worry about the light in the terrarium.

Unlike most reptiles, crested geckos are omnivorous, i.e. they eat both vegetables (actually berries and pureed fruit) as well as meat (mainly insects, though they may actually eat their own offspring).

Are you wondering how they got their name? They got their name from the fringe that is running down their back, starting right above their eyes. You may also hear people calling them the “eyelash gecko” because of that fringe. Their scientific name is Rhacodactylus ciliatus. Rhakos is Greek for spine, Dactylus means “finger” and Cilia is latin for “fringe”.

At one point in time, it was believed that this species was extinct, but then, in the year 1994, it was rediscovered off the coast of Australia in the islands of New Caledonia.

Breeding Crested Geckos

If you are thinking about breeding this species, you are in luck, because they are fairly easy to breed. Before you breed them, they should be at least fourteen months old, at least 35 grams and of course, healthy. In order to produce the eggs properly, the female will need to receive the right amount of calcium, it is therefore important to add supplements of calcium to your crested gecko’s diet. Calcium specifically produced for reptiles is readily available in pet shops and online. The gestation period for this species is between 30-35 days. During this time, the female crested gecko produces two eggs. Sperm can remain in the female for up to eight months after mating, so eggs can be fertilized even after males have been removed from the cage.

Size

The hatchlings are three inches long – the adults will range from 8-10 inches in length (this includes their tail).

Lifespan of Crested Geckos

The lifespan of this reptile is 15 to 20 years, as long as you properly take care of the creature.

Diet

The diet is always an important part of caring for any pet. Crested geckos feed on insects and fruits in the wild. Many people feed meal replacement powder, pureed fruit and live crickets when they have them as pets. You should never feed them citrus fruits as the acid may harm them. Calcium, nutritional supplements and vitamin D3 should be sprinkled lightly on their food in order to maintain their health. You can find these supplements in your local pet store or online.

Crested Gecko Cage

When you have one of these creatures as pets, it is important that you have the proper home for them. In the wild, they are arboreal, i.e. they live mainly in trees. They also like to have places to hide so that they feel secure. You should have only one male in the same enclosure. If you have two males, they will fight over the territory. You can, however, keep two females and one male in a 29-gallon aquarium without having problems. You should carefully consider the set-up and decoration of your crested gecko cage, as it needs to fulfil your pet’s needs for shelter, warmth and humidity.

Temperatures in your crested gecko cage: The gecko should be kept at temperatures between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You should mist their enclosure daily in order to keep them hydrated and supply them with humidity. In temperatures that are below 65 or above 80, the gecko will become stressed.

As for handling, this is something you should not do so much. When you first get them, you should let them adjust to their environment. They love to jump, so only handle them while you are sitting down and only handle them for fifteen minutes at a time.

The Importance of the Right Reptile Lighting

It is no secret that your cold-blooded creatures are in desperate need of an outside source of heat to survive. In spite of this knowledge, it is often too surprising to learn that more owners still believe that any reptile lighting is enough. This is a common misconception since the wrong brand could lead to serious illness, and even death. One of the obvious ways to prevent this is to learn for yourself the different types of luminosity, which is available in the market. It is also a great idea to study the physical make-up of the species you own to get a clear grasp of its toleration to heat.

First of all, you have to consider the dimensions of your reptile cages and terrariums before settling on any type of lighting. Once you’ve already determined the exact measurements of your pets’ home, it will now be easier for you to choose the precise length, and even type, of the device that your cold-blooded friends need. Of course, you also have to consider the shape of the glass case. For example, if you’ve settled for the usual, rectangular frame, then the fluorescent strips are the perfect piece for you. On the other hand, if you’ve decided to go for a circular or a hexagonal bowl, small bulbs would suffice.

Before you install a particular type of lighting, you are required to make an inventory, if not a mental note, of the reptile supplies, which are kept inside the terrarium. This list includes the permanent items, such as your decorative pieces, substrates, food and water dishes, and the like.

By doing this, you are given a clear idea on the kind of device, as well as the power of its radiance and heat, which you need to set up. However, if you find that a particular bulb suits the needs of your cold-blooded friends well, while the ornaments cannot handle the warmth, it will be wiser to replace the items with more durable ones.

Your choice of reptile lighting should also be suitable to the species of cold-blooded creatures you keep. For example, ordinary pets, like the iguana and lizards, require less heat, and they are happy with a mere basking lamp. On the other hand, snakes also need less warmth, while the small crocodiles mandate more radiance constantly.

The reptile lighting for you also depends on its setup procedures in the sense that you should choose a model, which is not too tedious for you to install. You may decide on a brand, which is meant to be fixed inside the terrarium in the same way that you would do your decorative adornments.

Finding the perfect lighting to give your reptiles a comfortable home is not a problem when you have already considered every aspect, which may affect your purchase.